Jerusalem. The Holy City.
The moral compass of three Abrahamic based Religions; Christianity, Islam and Judaism. The subscribers of each are recognisable and equally distinguishable from each other. The old city is a walled mosaic metropolis that has easily housed the most contestable spiritual landmarks in the world.
Each of the faiths have their own shrines, to be guarded and adored by easily distinguishable tribes of follower, often travelling in masses.
In the east, the Dome of the Rock shines in the sun, lined with the enchanting sound of calls to prayer, towering over the quaint, narrow streets crammed with the traffic of tourists and commerce. At the bottom the first stone in existence where God created Adam. The same rock that Abraham offered to sacrifice his son on, as a demonstration of loyalty to God. Also, the location that the Prophet Muhammed left the earth and ascended to heaven, only to return back there.
Now there lies a temple, restricted for only those with the Muslim faith, we can at least conclude the holy sphere is still held sacred from the tourism that has grown over the city since the times of the barbaric Crusades. The Crusading Knights brought religious real and primitive European butchery to arguably peaceful shores but they also brought their own ways of trade and tourism. Growing even further from the sacred and shaping this quarter of the city to resemble a medieval amusement park.
To the west the Church of the Holy Sepulchre which holds the shrine of the Christian messiah, Jesus. Pilgrims of nationalities from all corners of the earth travel to see their saviour but are greeted by a museum of medieval antiquity in one of the oldest shopping malls in the world.
The image of zealous tourists rubbing their hands on Simon of Cyrene’s door says all it needed about this place. The practicality of going about everyday living, diving in and out of the thin streets crowded with ‘spiritual tourists’, real tourists and bartering shopkeepers.
Christ may have risen but he is certainly not here. Western tourists locked in prayer or simply reaching out for a cheap souvenir of their dying faith to return home with.
There are no Jesus shaped Ghosts haunting the footsteps of the Via DelaRosa.
Many do not notice or simply do not acknowledge, as they tug and scrape at symbolic relics to try and gain some physical bearing on the spiritual. Is this because in Western Christendom, the commodity is now our cherished saviour? Would they even recognise their messiah has returned without the appropriate branding?
At the bottom of all this pageantry, modestly tucked away at the back is the oldest historical card Jerusalem has left to play. The surviving part of the most quintessential building of the city: The Temple of Solomon predates all else in Jerusalem. It would not be unreasonable to say it is the soul of the city.
This is was my chosen priority of destination. Remembering tails from here my father had been following in the footsteps of his lifelong friend since passed. I openly held preconceived ideals about the true importance of this site. An importance based more on historical accuracy than anything else.
As I touched the Wailing Wall, I felt the cool shape of the stone before it reached me. As I leaned forward, my senses were absorbed into the fabric of the wall and what soon felt like the fabric of the very universe. I closed my eyes and awoke in a small sealed chamber of tightly compressed molecules that instantaneously grew at light speed into the momentous size to planets and stars that bound the universe together. The very same universe somehow compressed into this cold stone I laid my hand on moments ago.
I felt at the centre of existence.
Eventually the vision eroded as time came to an end and there was only the wall left.
The world had been and gone over billions- trillions of years and I can confirm the it outlasted the trivial bickering of human tribal territory. I have no idea if there is to be a third temple but I know this wall will survive all odds. More than likely because it was built as a loadbearing wall in an impressive feat of civic engineering that holds cramped city dwelling together.
Metaphorically , it was the weight of the world on its shoulders/
Mine may be an overactive imagination but it is as valid and relative as any other theological experience.
Whilst suspended in this realm of concentration, personal issues surfaced from my subconscious storage and cathartic baggage stowed itself away safely for the trip home.
The obligatory concerns of mortality filed themselves away in the most ordinary feat of spiritual.
At the end of this life-affirming journey words made themselves known to me:
“Every story has a middle, a beginning and an end.”
The was tag line from the last Star Wars movie trailer and it verbalised the moment perfectly. The Star Wars world had long been enough of a spiritual narrative to keep my soul occupied in my life so far.
I returned to the wall later in the cool evening and instantly felt at peace staring at this blank wall. As I stepped onto the tiled floor I felt instantly transported to the patio of my back garden at home. The same space that had occupied moments with both alive and long gone.
My visit had made me realise that a lifetime encapsulates all that is best in life. That a life is a blink in the eye of eternal time but is eventually destined to end. Even if it is the singular circumstances of your own life, or the Sun burning out in the universe.
All that I best in life, is life. (There was Ruah everywhere).
After a day visit, I was convinced of my perception. Here is how I saw the old city of Jerusalem.
The Glorious Prophet (Peace be upon him) reached the heavens and back only for his feet to return to soil as he continued his journey elsewhere.*
Jesus Christ (the self-proclaimed son of God) had left our mortal realm, from here long ago, leaving only promise of return one day.
There is so much left in the air around these parts. Structures built for Schools of faith lasting on promise and prophecy but the only physical presence left was the surviving wall of the Temple pressed against me. Presumably with God tucked inside it somewhere. You don’t have to be a Priest, Rabbi, Imam or Scientist to know when there is something solid in front of you.
What else is there to hold onto? I can see the Sun, the moon and the stars all clearly from my garden back home every night.
Plus, the birds really seemed to enjoy it.
*Jerusalem used to be the holy city that Muslims prayed towards before the Prophet redirected it to Mecca. Whilst I was there I had an epiphany. Perhaps this change of sacred location for the Muslim faith was a decision based on a truly prophetic vision of the troublesome nature of the middle-eastern territorial disputes to come. Such wisdom would be within the understanding of a true prophet.